Daytrippin' in the jungle - Day 24, 5/2

Way to early Saturday morning (5/2-11) we arrived with the night bus to Palenque an hour earlier than planned. Had slept surprisingly well during the 8 hours in the bus! The plan was to find a collectivo to take us to the Palenque ruins, but already in the parking lot of the bus we were contacted by various tourist agencies trying to sell their tours. Having just woken up we were unable to consider at that point, but we brought their brochures into the terminal where we freshened up. Then took another look at the offers and realised it would be a good opportunity: Instead of just seeing the ruins and the go back to the bus station to catch a bus to San Cristobal de las Casas, some 5 hours away. With one of those agencies we could get a day-tour including the ruins and the two waterfalls Misol-Ha and Agua Azul plus transfer to San Cristobal for 350 pesos (bus to San Cristobal alone would have been almost 200 pesos). We “challenged” the two main agencies to get a lower price, but ended up with just 325 pr. person. The deal made at 6.30 AM gave us 1,5 hours before the van would leave to the ruins at 8.

We went around in Palenque to find a bit of breakfast and enjoy the city waking up. The town is surrounded by mountains, and their tops were covered with clouds – beautiful! Then back to the agency and into a minivan, leaving our luggage behind to be reunited with us after the visit to the ruins. No doubt the tour operators have made this deal with many others, but it still feels weird just leaving all your belongings with someone you don’t know… The weird little van-driver gave us a lot of instructions in Spanish, which even the Spanish speaking guests found a little hard to understand. Anyway, we got off the bus by the entrance to the ruins with instructions to meet the van again by the cafeteria 3.5 hours later.

Palenque

The Palenque ruins are in the jungle, in contrast to the ruins we visited previously in Teotihuacan, Tulum, and Chichen Itza, so the environment is very different and much greener! Its an impressive city with well preserved buildings, and we took our time strolling through all of them. However, after the long bus ride and with Sofie’s knee hurting, we didn’t feel like climbing and exploring them all inside. Also it was raining a tiny bit – only suitable for the rainforest I guess! :) We got a lot of great pictures of the ruins and the surroundings, and also visited a museum with excavated items and stories from the area.

We met with the other passengers at the “Cafeteria”, which turned out to be not much but a couple of coffee vending machines and tables. The bus was 20 minutes late, and as it arrived, we realised that we were too many people plus Sofie's and my backpacks to fit in the car. Two passengers were moved to a van from another company, while our backpacks where tied to the roof top luggage rack... Sofie and I were sitting with two others on the back seat, I was next to the window... Not the best place in the car, as the road was through the mountains, and the driver rather aggressive, with the result that I hit my head against the window time and time again. 

Misol-Ha

After like an hour of bumpy ride we arrive at destination number 2: The waterfall Misol-Ha. Here we spent an hour admiring the impressive falls, and walking in a path behind it. The back in the van on the same horrible road, made even more horrible by the driver. Sofie and I were both taking anti-motion sickness medication, but it just wasn't enough, so arriving at destination 3, Agua Azul, neither of us were feeling particularly well. At least we had 3 hours to get better and explore the area, before heading off again. 

Agua Azul

Agua Azul, or "Blue water" is names so due to its color (!), with a long series of falls over red rocks. Of course, as everywhere else there is tourists, also a lot of vendors in little shops were present to attract our attention. And they did well, with smells and colors we hadn't seen before on our trip! Getting closer to the poorer state Chiapas might have had an effect as well, with lower prices and new items in the shops. Once the worst nausea had disappeared, we tasted empanadas from one of the little stands; pockets of fried dough with chicken, cheese, beans, or other little things inside. Uhh, they were too good... Also on the way up along the falls we had mango and grilled corn cobs, and also got to buy some of the nice souvenirs. That way we managed to spend the time around the falls, eating, shopping, and looking at the pretty waters!

Back at the van we learned that we would have to change to another bus after 10 km, as the van was going back to Palenque, while we were going to San Cristobal. Actually pretty happy that we didn't have to go with the same driver all the way to Palenque. However, the road to San Cristobal turned out to be not-so-nice, as it was also through the mountains. The temperature was rapidly dropping, and in the end we were freezing cold, though still trying to get some sleep during the 5 hour trip. FINALLY we arrived in San Cristobal at 10 PM, 1.5 hours later than the tour promised, so we jumped into a taxi and went to the hostel we had booked online. They had a nice room waiting for us, and after a hot shower each, we went straight to bed!

Where the birds always sing - Mérida, day 23

Waking up in Mérida was associated with a choir of what sounded like jungle-birds, which we had also noticed walking around in the city the night before. Strange that these birds are so active only when its dark... The breakfast was the best I have ever had in a hostel! Big bowls with fresh cut fruit (melon, pineapple, and something unrecognizeable), bananas, cereal, yoghurt, bread, jam, butter, and the best: an omelet or a pancake of your choice! Wonderful start of the day!

The little man from the church... 

Then we went out to see the city, though we didn't get far. Every now and so often we were stopped by local people who started talking to us, and then after a while recommended certain shops where we should buy Mayan handicrafts! Friendly, yet with a purpose... First it was a little woman who convinced Sofie to check out a artisan coop, then a man on a bench who also managed to play some music for us on his iPod before showing us another Mayan shop, then an old man who first showed us around the church, then dragged us to his and his brother's shop. In the end we found some really nice though slightly expensive things, and decided that it was enough of shopping for the day!

So we went to see a museum with various paintings next to the cathedral, and got some lunch in a lebanese restaurant, before heading off to Paseo de Montejo, a fancy-building boulevard slightly outside the main central area. Here we visited an anthropology museum where we hired a guide, who's English turned out to be in need of some practice. It was a nice museum, but with the guide it turned out to be a little too much, so it was fine for us when the museum closed at 5, and we had to leave after a little more than an hour!

We found a little café with a yard where we spent half an hour drinking some lemonade. We had some time to kill before our night bus was leaving at 10; our luggage was still in the hostel. We went back there and spend a few hours, bought some snacks in the kiosk downstairs, and then went to catch the night bus to Palenque.

A trip back in time - Chichen Itza, day 22

Thursday morning we woke up early to catch a bus away from Tulum at 7.15. We left the white sands at 6.30 with a taxi, and caught some nice pictures of the sunrise on the way. The woman in the bus ticket booth tried to convince us to take the bus 2 hours later, a 1st class bus where we could reserve seats, but we decided that if it came to that, we would survive standing in the earlier 2nd class bus. While we waited we crossed the street to get some fresh fruit, and ended up with fresh blended orange-pineapple juices, croissants with cheese and ham, and big cups with fruit, yoghurt, and granola... Uhm, what a breakfast!

Safe inside the bus, on the front two seats (!), we left for Chichen Itza, the largest ruin city in Mexico, I believe. The trip took app. 2.5 hours, so we arrived at the site a bit before 10. A very nice time actually, not too warm yet, and not too many tourists. We fought our way through an army of vendors after passing the ticket-area where we deposited our backpacks. Then we got to to the main area of the ruins, and strolled around for some hours taking pictures and buying too many souvenirs, while it became warmer and warmer. When around 1 PM we had had enough of the place, vendors, and the heat, we went out to catch a bus to Mérida, our next stop. (Lots of pictures from Chichen Itza will tell the story in more detail than here! :))

As we managed to get into another 2nd class bus, the trip was a little longer than expected due to all the stops along the way. However we slept most of the way, so in the end it was ok. We arrived in Mérida around 5, and started walking on the way to the hostel located on the main square. Meanwhile we found a restaurant where we hung out in the bar with an only-Spanish-speaking waiter, who served us some dinner. Then we went to our hostel, checked in, took a cold shower (uff!), and went out in the city to enjoy the evening-lit area around the main plaza. We looked around for a bit in some shops as well, before settling at a restaurant where we got cheese- and chocolate cake... Nice, though expensive dessert! Then straight back to bed!

Still in Paradise - day 20.5 and 21

After coming back from our amazing snorkeling trip we settled into our new home-for-a-while on the beach in Tulum. We got out from the cap and stepped right into the finest white sand I have ever seen, and was greeted by Sabrina, the hostess. She showed us down the sandy path in the shadows of the palm trees and other jungle plants to our beach-tent - and incredible cotton tent with a thatched roof above it. Inside is a wooden floor and colored scarfs decorating and insulating the walls. The bed in the middle of the room was covered by a mosquito net, and there was also a drawer, two nightstands, and a lamp. Who needs more anyway? :) One of the more peculiar things of the site is that it is powered by a generator, only running till 10 PM. Hence, there was no power later in the evenings, allowing the pure impression of the beach environment to stand out. Incredible!

That evening, after taken the third swim of the day in the super-nice waves and watching the pelicans fishing, we went to the little cosy restaurant of the hotel, located between all the green plants in the sand, and got some drinks and their appetizer while we considered what we wanted to eat. However, it made us so full that we ended up leaving with nothing else. Afterwards we went walking around on the beach for a while, looking at the stars. So clear... Early to bed of course, tired after the swimming and fresh air - and lack of power to do anything else...! ;)

Wednesday morning, 3/2, we woke up and had breakfast like the day before in the hotel restaurant, however on their beach-deck, facing the morning sun. :) Afterwards we took our time to get ready, caught a taxi, and managed to get to the Mayan ruins in Tulum at the worst possible hour. Loads of tourist and baking hot. Oops... Anyway a nice experience in a very beautiful area. The ruins were very different from the ones we saw in Teotihuacan, and located on the edge of of cliff right above the turquoise ocean. Before we left the ruins we got a pop sickle each, made with fruit (one of those you should be slightly sceptical about if you wanna protect your stomach...). Super refreshing!

We decided to walk the 8 km back to the hotel, again maybe not THE best idea considering that the temperature well above 30 degrees. At least it felt like that with the sun smashing down from the sky. We walked partly on the beach, partly on the road, as the rocks allowed. Finally back at the beach we jumped into the ocean and rested a bit in the beach chairs. We were however not completely lucky with the weather, as some clouds had been building up, so with the wind it became a little chilly. While Sofie was writing postcards, I was reading the book I brought. When the sun went away behind the trees we showered, and got a late lunch on the beach-deck - quesadilla and Mexican salad, both very good. Then we spend some time packing our things as would be leaving early the next morning. Later in the evening we had some fresh fruit in the restaurant, enjoying our last hours on the beach. :)

A couple of days in Paradise! Day 19 and 20

Leaving Cancún Monday 31/1 felt kind of nice, especially after good breakfast in the hotel. We walked back to the bus station and caught a bus to Tulum, a place recommended by Jesús as being one of the most beautiful places ever. So I thought we'd better go... :)

He turned out to be right! We arrived and quickly found a hotel we had checked out online - a little peace of paradise. Though far from the street it was a great place to start our Tulum experience. Let me draw you the picture (and of course there are more in Facebook): We entered through a gate overgrown with green plants and flowers, and found the reception in a small cabaña, or hut if you prefer, greeted by a smiling receptionist, who showed us around. Via little stone paths around to cabañas hidden in the jungle-like vegetation, we found our favorite in a round wooden hut with a large bed, bathroom, and a hammock hanging across the room! From there we went to see the pool with a few beach chairs around in the sun. Next to the pool a larger version of the cabañas with chairs, sofas, and a bookshelf, functioning as a restaurant for breakfast and dinner, and lounge throughout the day. What a truly amazing place...

So obviously we spent most of our afternoon in the pool and in the chairs in the sun, relaxing and enjoying not having to do anything but just that. Getting hungry around 3 PM we talked with Evelina, the Polish receptionist, who suggested a restaurant for lunch. She also asked if we would be interested in a snorkeling trip the following day - first I was a little sceptical, but then realised that the offer was great: 600 pesos per person including pick-up and equipment and some hours of snorkeling in the ocean. So we accepted, looking forward to some adventure! :) And then we went to get lunch in the restaurant, specialising in fish. Very good!

After lunch Sofie went to and Internet Café, while I spent some time reading in the sun. When she came back I had retreated from the pool because of mosquitos, and Sofie joined me in our cabin. We hung around for a while talking, before going out to the restaurant by the pool to get some dinner. I had an amazing risotto with smoked salmon, and as I asked for some vegetables also tomatoes and carrots with a glass of white wine. Sooooo good! :)

Tuesday morning we woke up early, excited to be going snorkeling! We had breakfast at 8, consisting of toasted bread with butter and jam, plus juice and coffee, and a great peace of banana cake! Was picked up 8.30 by our snorkeling guide, Evelina's Spanish boyfriend Jaime, and his friend Pablo. Packed our large backpacks in the trunk, and was off to pick up wet suits and masks. Uhh, exciting! :D

On the way to the beach Jamie explained the plan for the day. First we were going to Akumal Beach to look at sea animals around the reef. He expected that we would get to see turtles, sting rays, maybe eagle rays and barracudas if we were lucky, and for sure a lot of different fish! After Akumal we would go to a cenote - a huge sinkhole where the limestone has been eroded and collapsed years ago, and now filled with water perfect for snorkeling and diving. We didn't know we were going on this second adventure as well, and got extra happy that we had chosen to go on the trip! :) 

Getting into the wet suit was not exactly comfortable in the 30 degrees heat, but as soon as we were in the water it was nice. Weird feeling to breath underwater... Never tried snorkeling before, and the first time you put your face under water and take a breath, its really about overcoming some natural boundaries towards survival-behaviour! :D But of course you get used to is quickly, and we set out towards deeper, less sandy water. Our guide had brough an underwater camera to capture our sights. And we were soooo lucky with what we got to see!! Several huge turtles, several sting rays, a spotted eagle ray right next to a barracuda, and all those other magnificently colorful fish! What an experience! We were in the water for almost an hour and a half before we headed back to the beach and the car. I had a cramp in my leg and was provided with a banana, which apparently is good for cramps. Some of you will recon that I am not a big fan of bananas, but this one... Uhm, was good! :) 

Back in the car headed towards the cenote, Jaime told us a bit more about the place and what to expect. Can't say much else than to look at the pictures. It was so incredible there! The water was cold and completely clear, the sun was shining down in the cave, the water had clear rays of sun lighting everything, and there were loads of stalagmites and stalactites, many from floor to ceiling, in all sizes. Swimming around in those caves has been one of my most beautiful experiences ever! So incredible it is hard to describe, so just imagine the cool, clear water, little fish all around, and beautiful light and rock formations... The pictures will tell the story - check the link in the menu! --->!

Back home in the town we were dropped off at a local restaurant that Jaime recommended. We had a huge meal with quesadilla, flautas, and various other things, and then moved with our backpacks to the beach-version of the hotel we had just left - from Don Diego de la Selva to Don Diego de la Playa. Another interesting story, which I will have to delay my telling of as I have to sleep a bit... 

Flying to Cancún - Day 18

Sunday morning, 30/1-11, we got out of our hostel beds after too little sleep and checked out of the hotel. It turned out that this check out would be the first in a row of minor issues caused by the receptionists in various hotels being unaware of the prices offered online... Anyway, we got out alright and was picked up by Emmanuel a little past 9. Our flight to Cancún, the next stop on the trip, was leaving at noon, and we decided to go to the airport to eat breakfast together to be sure to be on time. We checked in and had chilaquilles and croissants with juice, very delicious! Then off with the 2h flight, with plans to return to Mexico City after 2 weeks.

When we landed in Cancún we arrived to a much more humid environment than I have experienced in a while (Slovenia, July 2010, to be exact! ;)). We had bought tickets for a bus to the center online, had an easy trip, and walked from the bus station to our hotel with a "local guide" - aka. an alcoholic who new the way, and entertained us in Spanish in the meantime. :) Our hotel was nice and not too expensive, only minus was the fact that our room was located on an EXTREMELY noisy street, which was rather uncomfortable during the night.

After unpacking a bit, we headed towards to beach. We must have been a little bit too optimistic regarding the distance, and didn't take the receptionist's advice on taking a bus there. We started walking, but it took us more than an hour, and by that time the sun had almost disappeared from the beach. At least on the way we went into a supermarket to stash up on some fruit, bread, and water, so it was a nice walk after all. After walking a bit in the powdery sands we found a restaurant (Pirates Bay, as far as I remember!) and had two salads and beers for dinner. We took a taxi home, and was reminded to always ask for the price on beforehand when he totally overcharged us. Went to bed fairly early - Sofie slept before 7! :)

Biiiiiig city adventures! Day 16 and 17 in Mexico City

(Due to very slow internet I cannot add pictures at the moment! However, do check the Facebook album, Mexico part 2 ---->)

Our first morning in Mexico City started with a little walk through the city center, from the hotel through the Alameda Central park to get to a café, which Emmanuel had recommended for breakfast. Typically Mexican and very popular, but we quickly got at table and ordered orange juice, a tamale, and eggs with beans. We also got bread (with and without chili!) and butter for our delicious meal. And coffee for Sofie, of course!

Afterwards our tour continued to Zócalo, where we hardly got to the catedral, before a guy asked us if we were interested in a guided tour. He dragged to the guide, and old man speaking fairly good English, and we asked for the price – 100 pesos. We decided it wouldnt hurt with some historical introduction to the church, and accepted to offer. The cathedral is build on top of old Aztec ruins in an island in an ancient lake, and as the ground is unstable, the building has been sinking for many years. Hence the floor and walls of the church make you feel somewhat sea sick while walking around inside! Special expeirence… The catedral is very beautiful, and the guide took us around to the different shrines and told us some things about the traditions and history. When finishing the church he took us to an excavation site just behind the church, where the Aztec buildings are being dug out. Like Vicente mentioned the other day: “It’s a dilemma; should the historical buildings build on top of the even older buildings be compromised to learn more about the ancient history?” We decided not to visit the site itself, but the guide’s introduction to the nearby Presidential palace and its murals by Diego Riviera convinced us to join him there as well, for no extra charge. He showed us around in the magnificent buildings, and told us about the Mexican history based on the murals. Really a well-spent couple of hours and money! J

Again outside we checked out the public transportation system by taking a trip with the metro. Costs 3 pesos pr. trip and is easy to navigate, though rather hot and crowded. We went to Chapultepec where there is large park and lake, and we had lunch in a place that was a hybrid between a street vendor and a restaurant. Considering how hungry we both were, it felt worth the risk of poor hygiene! And for the record, none of us had any problems afterwards! ;) For dessert I dug out two Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, slightly smashed, but very delicious! :D Then back home with the metro to take a nap before meeting Emmanuel for dinner 19.30.

The nap was not the world’s best idea, as we both woke up feeling exhausted. No wonder for Sofie, whom with jetlag would feel like it was 2 AM. Anyway, we grabbed another metro, and waited for a while for Emmanuel, who’s phone stopped working so he didn’t know we were waiting. When he picked us up we went to a restaurant/bar with some of his colleagues, to celebrate a birthday. We had a bit of food and some entertainment from a magician, who did a really good job in making us astonished by his tricks! Around 11 PM we gave into the tiredness, and Emmanuel took us home.

Saturday morning started again too early, this time with breakfast in the hotel café – cheese omelettes with bread and jam and juice. At 9 AM Emmanuel picked us up to take us to the nearby ruins in Teotihuacan, app. 1 hour drive outside the city. It was a warm and sunny day, so we were soaked in sunscreen! Well, Emmanuel wasn’t, and got slightly sunburned…  :) The ruins were very impressive, and arriving before the loads of tourists from the city arrived in large busses some hour later allowed us some space in the beginning. Very nice! We climbed all the different buildings and enjoyed the view, though also feeling the exercise in our muscles! At a souvenir place I found on of the Mexican things I had already planned to bring home: a large ceramic sun in orange-reddish colours! Its really nice and will fit well in my living room! Also I got 3 little similar suns, and I am really looking forward to see them at home! I hope they will survive the trip…

Home by 5 and going out for dinner at 7, we had a bit of time to rest and shower to get rid of the dust! At 7 we grabbed the metro once again, and went for dinner with Emmanuel and two of his friends. We were in Coyoacan in a really nice restaurant serving mescal (similar to tequila, but stronger). With our dinner we had mescal drinks, mine with pulparindo. More special than delicious… Same goes for the guacamole we got, served with fried crushed grasshoppers… Yes, really. And they didn’t tell us what it was till we had tried it! Didn’t taste like much, though afterwards I really didn’t feel like eating more of them, recognizing legs and bodies on top of the otherwise delicious guacamole… After dinner we went to a salsa club to dance a bit. Not that either Sofie or I are very strong dancers, but with the 3 guys we really had a lot of fun! We didn’t keep track of time, and I was surprised to see that it was 3 AM when we finally got home! 

Though I am usually not so good with big cities, I must say that I got quite a good impression of Mexico City. Maybe because of our personal guide and driver, I don’t know – we just had a really nice couple of days!